Monday, 29 July 2019

MUSIC (AIMAN, ADELE AND AGNES OBEL)

PESHAWAR: In the first quarter of the last century, Virginia Woolf, famous for taking on subjects as complex as the streams of consciousness and a vociferous feminist, wrote that in a hundred years woman will have ceased to be a protected sex, and logically she will take part in all the activities and exertions that were once denied her.
Though her countrymen were then stationed in the Northwestern Frontier Province of India, Virginia could not be expected to have heard too many accounts of Peshawar, none favourable at least, and thus traveled to this simmering hotbed of tribalism in any state of mind including, of course, delirium.
But while the great writer thus conjectured, less than a century later a woman candidate, with masters in English literature, appearing in an interview for a position in the civil service was asked about her favourite writer. “Virginia Woolf,” the gorgeous lady answered with a well pronounced chuckle.
“What! But wasn’t she mad?” the interviewer hit back at the young lady with a grin and then getting back to the question asked her about her favourite novel. “Mrs Dalloway,” the candidate replied with an exaggerated level of confidence.
The young aspirant to the civil service came from the same conservative climes of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa in the same age that produced Aiman Udhas, a singer endowed with unique talent whose career was cut short in infancy when she was killed, allegedly by her own siblings.
Feminism is a dangerous territory; one is compelled at treading it cautiously. Any arguments advanced in support of granting women any amount of freedom to pursue a career of their liking could prove to be self defeating. The issue could boomerang quite unwittingly, forcing one to eat humble pie with counter arguments like, “okay, will you then allow your sisters and daughters to sing and dance in public?”
But listening to Aiman Udhas’s melancholic voice touching plaintive themes, three years after her passing away, one cannot help stop comparing her to the present day wildly popular western classical and soul singers like Adele and Agnes Obel.
Aiman Udhas (sad), as the singer would prefer to be so called, could indeed have been our answer to Adele and Agnes.
Unfortunately, however, Aiman’s legacy is a single album consisting of only half a dozen songs rendered most beautifully and which are unbelievably evocative.
Both Adele and Agnes have won a record number of awards in short spans of their respective careers. In 2009, Adele won five Grammy Awards including one for best new artist, and in 2012 she improved on that score by winning six Grammy Awards including one for album of the year.
What did Aiman win in 2009: it brought ‘death’ knocking at her tranquil little door and claiming her scalp thus bringing to an end her brief but immensely promising career in the field of Pashto music.
Death is the most popular game in Khyber Pakhtunkhwa for quite some time now. One of the worst tragedies to have fallen the people of this land is the manner in which the art of ‘death’ has been perfected.
Everyone’s life appears to be hanging by a thread but the lives of wretched poor female singers look to be simply awaiting the assassin’s bullets. It is heart wrenching to hear Aiman foretelling her comeuppance:
Aiman Udhas wai da dastur dey dalta Zama na kam shawey qasur dey dalta
But it must also be said to the abiding shame of those dealing in the game of death that contrary to their puritanical pretensions they do not have cure even for a minor ailment afflicting the human body and would quite often be found out begging at the doors of secretive hospitals when harm comes to their bodies.
Aiman was a world apart from the rest of the Pashto singers, who are popular for various reasons dictated by the market.
Her numerous admirers recall Aiman as a lady gifted with intelligence, personified in quietude and restrained in manners who would not give in to the galleries by pandering to the base desires of the marketers.
Pashto music is quiet popular these day. Young and good-looking singers from some good families with creative ideas have managed a sizable following across the ethnic and linguistic borders. But still a vast majority of the Pashtun populace turns to the murky and highly offensive parallel Pashto cinema and music.
One would really need a tutorial in euphemisms to describe the Pashto entertainment world to the people with delicate sensibilities.
Men, of middle age, and women much younger to be their daughters, in highly disagreeable and unpleasant getups gyrating improperly to a wild kind of music has unfortunately captured the imagination of a major segment of the Pashtun audience.
In the midst of such putrefying environment, Aiman’s deep captivating voice was like a whiff of fresh air. She sang of her miserable circumstances to such an effect that she did not at all sound like another love besotted girl shunned by the society but the true symbol of women deprivation and afflictions. The lingering theme of one of her songs is her maiden love of which she says:
Pa zindagai ke me yo zal kare wa meena khalqa Khabar za na wum che lamba da bya ba na kom meena
(I had loved only once in my life, O folks! I will not do so again since I did not know that this flame will burn me.)
Aiman Udhas, one notes, had so much in common with her western counterparts. All three wrote their lyrics in addition to composing them. And Aiman was also modern without recourse to the western musical instruments like piano, guitar, bass and percussion.
Two top of the charts songs, one each by Adele and another by Agnes Obel have palpable shades of the common ground that the three singers played on. Adele’s classic song:
Whenever I’m alone with you You make me feel like home again Whenever I’m alone with you You make me feel like I am whole again However faraway, I will always love you However long I stay, I will always love you,
And Agnes Obel’s soul song would forever remind one of the heights that Aiman could have scaled:
Down by the river by the boats Where everything goes to be alone Where you won’t see any rising sun Down by the river we will run Oh my God! See how everything is torn in the river deep And I don’t know why I go the way Down by the river side Aiman couldn’t have survived in a land where reason does not exist, and where guns hold the sway.
Her brilliance was silenced with a single shot, or perhaps two, but as Virginia would say, ‘lock up your libraries if you like; but there is no gate, no lock, no bolt that you can set upon the freedom of my mind.’ Rest in peace Aiman, this land is sadder without you.’

TOURISM (THE VANISHING WILDERNESS)

Domestic tourists en route to Naran on the eve of Eid holidays, 2018 | Photos by the writer
Domestic tourists en route to Naran on the eve of Eid holidays, 2018 | Photos by the writer
In the mid-’80s when I visited the Kaghan Valley, it was via a hitchhike in a truck owned by the forest department. Back then the much-talked about hazards and travails of the treacherously narrow road would act as a barrier against undertaking the journey. Overlooking bottomless gorges running thick with ferocious waters, the road indeed was not without its pitfalls but nothing could come in the way of youthful resolve.
The broken-down truck made many stop-overs during its more than six-hour-long journey to Naran from Balakot. But each of these interruptions was an unmitigated blessing, as it afforded us a splendid view of the mountains, letting us inhale the strong scent emitted by the dense conifer forests. It was wilderness personified in the absolute calm of the mountains. Significantly, there was hardly any traffic on the road and our truck appeared to be the lone lion roaring on the nearly 128-kilometre (80-mile) long road.  
One recalls the earlier visit, wistfully, in the wake of what has lately become of the once serene valleys in our Northern Areas. 
Urbanisation, development and hordes of domestic tourists are fast changing the landscape of our Northern Areas, to their ultimate detriment
Last year, hundreds and thousands of motor vehicles headed to Naran during the week-long Eid holidays, only to be left stranded on the road between Balakot and Naran. Pictures showed wan and weary tourists, mostly from the southern districts of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa (KP), and no fewer from the various parts of Punjab, languidly resting on the slopes in the vain hope of, somehow, making it to their final destination at Naran. A sizeable number of the vehicles were the so-called pick-ups, prominently carrying a water cooler, a gas stove, a rug and a string bed for want of seats. 
This year, too, according to reports, around 2,000,000 people visited the tourist spots in KP.
Unchecked construction of hotels on the bank of Swat River
Unchecked construction of hotels on the bank of Swat River
It may hurt the sensitivities of a genuine tourist to reflect in any greater detail on the hygienic conditions that erupt in the face of such a mass convergence of people on the small mountaintops and valleys. But such information must not be kept from the eyes and ears of authorities in Islamabad and Peshawar who, for all the wrong reasons, appear to be too obsessed with filling up our empty coffers from the money to be earned from tourism.       
We have to appreciate that when we talk of boosting tourism, our most prized asset is our wilderness. It is, or perhaps was, our wilderness that would attract the discerning tourists from far and wide in considerable numbers. For quite a long time, our wilderness needed no adjectives to announce its profound truth. Sadly, we have ceded on this count, as a substantial portion of our wilderness now stands exposed to the forays of unprecedented human traffic in the peak summer season. 
Pakistan is blessed with wilderness of two kinds: the arid forlorn landscape of Balochistan, and the green forests, mountains and fast flowing rivers and streams of the north. The latter is the most threatened as the hostile climatic conditions in the deserts act as natural bulwark against the rampaging march of the human species.
Zahoor Durrani, founder of Sehrai Tours, has been in the tourism business in KP for more than 40 years. He is heartbroken at the way things are being handled in the tourism sector. “After ruining everything in Kaghan, Naran, Kalam and Nathiagali, the mafia in the garb of tourism promoters have now turned their eyes to Batta Kundi, some 20 km from Naran,” Durrani laments. The tour operator believes that the unchecked construction of multi-storey hotels instead of cottages has totally disfigured the landscape in the once lush-green idyllic Batta Kundi area.
Soft-spoken Haji Asghar has been looking after tourists in Nathiagali for almost four decades. He has seen how the mountaintop lost its glory in the name of development. “There was no need for the setting up of a separate entity in the name of Galiyat Development Authority with its more than 200 staff,” he says sadly. “Previously the job was being looked after in a much better way by less than 20 people in the erstwhile Communication and Works Department.”
In June 2016, Imran Khan flew to Kumrat in Upper Dir district. The visit received wide publicity with everyone pontificating how the mountainous area, resplendent with thick deodar forests, was a heaven for tourism. Barely a month later, on the eve of Eidul Fitr, thousands of domestic tourists flocked to Kumrat. It is common knowledge that, until quite recently, the people of Kumrat would not allow visitors to their area. Previously, no outsider could dare tread there without an acquaintance among the locals, who jealously guarded their privacy. At the end of the Eid holidays in 2016, entrails of at least one thousand slaughtered sheep were found littered on the bank of the pristine Panjkora River in the Kumrat valley. Lately, domestic tourists from KP have been seen transporting their own sheep along with them and the trend is becoming popular by the day, with little or no attention to cleanliness.
Chitral Valley | Photo by Zahiruddin
Chitral Valley | Photo by Zahiruddin
Hearing such accounts was indeed painful as I had visited Kumrat the same year in the company of some locals, namely Zahid, Ismail and Junaid, who informed me about the mess left by the thousands of domestic tourists visiting the Kumrat Valley during the week-long Eid holidays. Such accounts sound even more frightening in the backdrop of reports that the deputy commissioner of Upper Dir had succeeded in convincing the reluctant people of Kumrat that the conversion of their area into a national park would create a bonanza for all and sundry. 
There should be little doubt as regards the fate of Kumrat in the faraway Hindu Kush mountains, once the idea of a dreaded national park is implemented. It is in the backdrop of such poorly conceived ideas that one gets jitters whenever a picture of a remote lake, hidden in the mountains, is splashed in the mainstream newspapers with the caption demanding an access road to the same to boost tourism. We must not forget that our unbridled onslaught on the mountains has already turned the fabled Saiful Muluk Lake in Naran into a pool of literally stagnant water. 
Cultures under threat: locals herding their flocks of sheep in Lowari Top | The Kalasha of the Hindu Kush by Maureen Lines
Cultures under threat: locals herding their flocks of sheep in Lowari Top | The Kalasha of the Hindu Kush by Maureen Lines
One could sympathise with the people of Chitral in demanding the early construction of the Lowari tunnel as their impoverished township, that nestles in the Hindu Kush, remains cut off from the country for nearly five months during harsh winters. On the flip side of the project is the opening of the stupendously calm valleys to the boisterous clamour of noisy crowds. Ironically, the opening of the tunnel would mean bartering the privacy of a diverse and, in several cases, primitive culture and, above all its quietude shielded by a massive wall of formidable mountains for the charm of elusive economic opportunities.
Indeed a tunnel may solve the long-standing problems of the people of Chitral. But for a savvy and adventure-loving tourist landing in Chitral without enjoying the thrill and solitude of the Lowari top, the effort may not be worth the time and money spent.   
Many people may not agree with this account. They may even term it as cynical by pointing out that wilderness alone is not the mainstay of our tourism. True, we have our Gandhara and Indus Valley civilisations to crow about, in addition to our simple and distinct way of life to be shared with the potential tourists. But then we have to keep in mind that modern-day tourists soon get tired of visits to museums, mountains and bazaars. Most, if not all, tourists want to indulge in the pleasures of life in the evenings at the end of day-long trips to various spots on the recommendation of their guides. 
Forest Inspection House in Kumrat
Forest Inspection House in Kumrat
The overemphasis, to the extent of sounding hackneyed, on tourism as a panacea for our economic ills appears to be without solid grounds and reasons. 
In quite a large number of Muslim countries, alcohol is freely available to tourists. In Pakistan, drinking alcohol is prohibited by law. While in the rest of the country, non-Muslim foreigners can consume spirits under licence, the same limited freedom is disallowed in KP. It is an altogether different fact, however, that boozers in KP find little difficulty in procuring whatever hard drink they want to soothe their nerves with. In the face of such striking pretensions and crippling restrictions, it is indeed too far-fetched to expect that we could ever tempt tourists to visit us.
The foregoing also renders meaningless any comparisons with our neighbouring countries in the field of tourism. In 2017-2018, according to the Pakistan Tourism Development Corporation, only 1.7 million tourists visited Pakistan in 2017, while — according to the World Tourism and Travel Council — tourism contributed 2.7 per cent to Pakistan’s $313 billion GDP. This comes out to be less than 8.5 billion dollars which, in all probability, is made up of visa fees, airline tickets and hotel charges from the hotels operating in the formal sector. While this may be so, given our peculiar nature of culture and habits, our domestic tourists —especially those from KP — prefer to look after themselves rather than letting their adventure lead to the creation of favourable employment opportunities for others. 
India, during the same period, earned more than 260 billion US dollars from tourism, leading to the creation of thousands of jobs. While this comparison may be misleading on some counts, we have to agree that India offers more freedom and security to the tourists than Pakistan does.
Also, we need to know that the international perspective on tourism is fast changing. According to the cover story in Time magazine’s August 18 issue, las year, faced with an annual intake of about 700 million tourists, many European countries are considering measures to stem the tide. These measures include higher rates of taxes for tourists, imposing fines and limiting the number of daily visitors to certain places. The mass movement of tourists in Europe is being considered a threat not only to the maintenance and preservation of famous landmarks but it is also feared that this trend is negatively impacting the lifestyles of the local communities.
It may not be an exaggeration to say that Pakistan’s most prized landmark is its wilderness, some of which may still be out of harm’s way. Here, we have a choice: we can preserve our wilderness from our domestic tourists to present it to the outside world through which we can earn some little foreign exchange (as revenue from tourism per se is revenue from export). But banking too much on bettering our lot from tourism appears to be a misplaced hope.
The writer is a freelancer and author of Less Than Civil: The State of Civil Service in KP. nasseryousaf@gmail.com
Published in Dawn, EOS, June 16th, 2019